Los sospechosos de siempre: grasas, azúcares y sales. Circulación y apropiación de controversias alimenticias en una cocina

Sandra Daza Caicedo

doi:10.48160/18517072re53.107

Authors

Sandra Daza Caicedo Universidad Nacional de Colombia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.48160/18517072re53.107

Keywords:

Food, nutritionism, Apppropiation, salt, sugar, fat, cooking

Abstract

This article discusses the reductionist view of food known in the social studies of science and technology as Nutritionism. A view which mobilizes a reductionist and functionalist vision of food, linking it to effects that micro and macro nutrients have on health. This way of understanding food is widely used in nutrition and public health policies and mobilized by the food industries for the development of “healthy” products. Using the example of the health attributions that have been given to fats, salt and sugar (the usual suspects), it is analyzed how these attributions are product of controversies and complex assemblages between scientific laboratories, public policy and food industries. Additionally, it is discussed through an ethnographic analysis in cooking classes how discourses about these three suspects circulate and are translated and appropriate by teachers and students, revealing these products and food as a more complex phenomenon.

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